BOTANY TWILLS

This is a general term for dress twill fabrics made from botany yams in 2 x 2, 3 X 3, and 4 X 4 twill weaves, and many fancy twill weaves. They are all clear finished, which allows the face to be clearly seen. Qualities are numerous.

This term is generally applied to the finish given to warp-faced woollen fabrics, and means that after finishing, the weave is clearly visible. The fabric is felted to give a compact structure, then raised or brushed and afterwards is cropped to remove loose fibres from the face. Such material as Venetians, Whipcords, Wool Bedford Cords, Botany Twills, etc., are clear finished.

A coarse, woollen cloth known as early as the 12th century, a finer quality being called " say." It was much used during the Middle Ages for all portions of attire by the poorer classes, and in the piece for the decoration of houses. ———————— The specification issued by the U.S.A. Government is as follows: - Cotton and worsted serge for overcoat lining shall be of single or 2-ply cotton warp and single or 2-ply worsted filling, the wool to be not below 46's grade; the width shall be full 36-in. exclusive of the selvedge and shall weigh from 6-oz. to 7-oz. per linear yard; it shall be woven in regular serge weave and constructed so as to give a fabric with good body and twill line on the face and containing approximately equal quantities of worsted and cotton yarns throughout; to be navy-blue, fast to the light, with both sets of threads and to be put up into bookfold. ———————— This term was formerly applied in Yorkshire to rough handling coarse wool fabrics woven in a twill design. An old 6-end serge was a simple diagonal 3 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down. The term serge is now almost universally understood to mean the 2 & 2 twill, and sometimes the 3 & 3 and the 4 & 4 twills. In wool fabrics it is the practice to add to the name serge, the definition of botany to distinguish fine wool serges from cross-bred qualities. A typical botany worsted serge, 2 & 2 twill weave, 21-02. per yard, 56/58-in. is made with 2/20's worsted 64/70's quality, S twist, 46 ends and 46 picks per inch, 72-in. wide in loom, woven white arid piece-dyed. The cloth is clear finished so as to obtain a well-defined twill effect. A usual weight for ladies' costume serge is 12/13-oz. per yard. Serges are made in many qualities ranging from 12-oz. to 26-oz. per yard. Crossbred worsted yarns are used in making the rougher and stronger types, while woollen yarns are also used. A serge which is extensively used in uniforms for transport workers is made with two-fold cross-bred worsted yarn for warp and single Cheviot woollen yarn for weft. The cloth is woven white or grey and piece-dyed.

A dress-goods fabric made in France from organzine warp and fine botany weft. It seems to be a general term since twills, serges, and brocades are sold under this name. Mostly piece-dyed black.

Another name for the Clay Twill. These twills give a chain effect due to the two fold weft and the large amount of shrinkage in width that takes place during finishing. There is about 15 to 17 per cent shrinkage from cloth width to finished width. The yams are botany worsteds and woven about 60 X 62 per inch; 2/38's to 2³/₄/42's yarns.

There are many fabrics used for linings for coats, dresses, gowns, mantles, etc. The most important are as below and each is described under its name: - Alpaca, Beatrice twill, botany, check, Italians, cotton, moire, glissades, lastings, Levantines, lustre, melange, moire silk, rainproof, serge, shot brocade, silk, rayon, taffeta, twills, union, Venetian.